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How to Read a Climbing Route Before You Leave the Ground

How to Read a Climbing Route Before You Leave the Ground

Por Kamal Daghistani

How to Read a Climbing Route Before You Leave the Ground

A climbing route can look simple from the ground.

You see the starting holds, a few obvious handholds, and the finish.

Then you get on the wall.

Suddenly, you cannot see the next move as clearly. A foothold you noticed from the ground feels difficult to use. The sequence you imagined does not work the way you expected.

This is where route reading can help.

Route reading is the process of studying a climb from the ground and planning your holds, footholds, body positions, and likely movement sequence before you start.

It does not mean predicting every move perfectly.

It means giving yourself a plan before you leave the ground.

What Does It Mean to Read a Climbing Route?

Route reading is essentially observation and planning.

Before climbing, you look at the route and ask:

  • Where do I start?

  • Which holds are part of the route?

  • Where are the useful footholds?

  • Which direction is the climb likely to take?

  • Where might the difficult section be?

  • Where could I pause?

  • How might I position my body?

You are trying to understand the problem before solving it.

That does not mean your first plan will always be correct.

Your plan is a starting point.

Step 1: Find the Starting Position

Start by identifying the official starting holds.

Then look at how you might position your hands and feet before making the first movement.

Do not immediately think about the final hold.

Think about the first few moves.

Ask yourself:

Where will my body be after the first movement?

That question helps you look beyond individual holds.

Step 2: Look at the Foot Holds

Don't read a route using your hands alone.

Look carefully at the footholds.

A small foothold may determine where your body needs to be positioned for the next move.

A higher foothold may change the angle of your body.

A foothold on one side may suggest moving in a particular direction.

For beginners, this can be one of the easiest things to miss because handholds are usually more visually obvious.

Before climbing, deliberately scan for the feet.

Step 3: Trace the Route With Your Eyes

Once you know the start, try to follow the route upward.

Look from one hold to the next.

You do not necessarily need to identify the entire sequence perfectly.

Instead, look for a likely path.

You might think:

Start → left hand → right foot → right hand → higher foothold → finish.

The exact sequence may change once you start climbing.

That is normal.

The purpose of route reading is to reduce uncertainty before you begin.

Step 4: Think About Body Position

Now ask what your body will need to do during the sequence.

Will you need to turn your hips?

Will you need to reach across?

Will one foot need to move before your hand?

Will you need to keep your body close to the wall?

You don't need to know every technical term.

Simply imagine yourself making the movement.

This mental preview can help you notice problems before you encounter them on the wall.

Step 5: Look for Places to Reset

Not every climb requires continuous movement.

Look for places where you might be able to pause and reorganize.

A good pause point may give you time to:

  • Change your grip

  • Move a foot

  • Look at the next section

  • Adjust your body position

  • Prepare for the next movement

Knowing where these opportunities might exist can make a route feel more manageable.

Step 6: Identify the Hardest Section

Most routes have sections that feel different from the rest.

The hardest part may involve:

  • A longer reach

  • Smaller holds

  • Less obvious footholds

  • A change in direction

  • A balance-intensive movement

  • A sequence that requires several moves close together

Try to identify this section before starting.

Then think about what you might need to do differently there.

You may decide to move more slowly.

You may choose to conserve energy before reaching it.

Or you may simply want to understand that this is the section where your original plan may need adjustment.

Step 7: Create a Simple Plan

You don't need a detailed script.

A simple plan is usually enough.

For example:

Start → move left → bring the right foot up → reach across → reset → continue toward the finish.

Keep it flexible.

The goal is not to memorize every hold.

The goal is to understand the general movement sequence.

What Happens When Your Plan Doesn't Work?

This is an important part of route reading.

Your first plan will not always work.

You may reach a hold and discover that the body position you imagined is uncomfortable.

You may notice a foothold you missed.

You may realize that another sequence is easier.

That does not mean your route reading failed.

It means you learned something from the attempt.

A good climber can adjust the plan.

Route reading is not about predicting the future perfectly.

It is about starting with useful information and making better decisions as you climb.

Why Route Reading Gets Better With Experience

The more routes you look at, the more familiar certain patterns become.

You may start recognizing:

  • Common movement sequences

  • Useful foothold positions

  • Changes in direction

  • Difficult transitions

  • Places where you can pause

  • Body positions that make certain moves easier

You are not simply memorizing routes.

You are building experience with climbing problems.

That experience can make route reading faster and more intuitive.

Can Beginners Learn to Read Routes?

Absolutely.

You do not need years of climbing experience before you can start.

In fact, learning to look at a route before climbing can be useful from your first sessions.

Start small.

Before getting on the wall, take a moment to identify the start, trace several holds, and look for the footholds.

Then climb and compare what happened with what you expected.

Over time, you will become better at spotting useful information before you start.

How Can Climbing Classes Help?

Climbing classes can give beginners another way to learn route reading.

An instructor can explain why a particular sequence may work and point out movement options that are easy to miss.

Las Rocas offers climbing classes and programs for different skill levels, with instruction focused on technique, movement, safety, and progression.

That type of guidance can be particularly useful when you understand the basic idea of route reading but struggle to apply it on the wall.

Route Reading Is More Than Memorizing Holds

The goal of route reading is not to stand underneath a climb and memorize every hold.

It is to understand the movement problem in front of you.

Look at the start.

Find the feet.

Trace the likely sequence.

Think about body position.

Identify the difficult section.

Then start climbing and adjust when reality does not match your plan.

With practice, you may find that you spend less time wondering what to do next and more time thinking about how to make the movement work.

At Las Rocas, climbers have access to dedicated bouldering terrain, a Kilter Board, training areas, and climbing classes designed for different experience levels.

→ Come See Us at Las Rocas

→ Check Out Our Website to Learn More


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